Love of Travel

So this past year I was fortunate enough to do quite a lot of traveling.  In addition to a couple of trips to see family in Arizona and Oregon, I made three major trips out of the country: Chile and Argentina last November; Quito, Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands in April; and Turkey in June. 

Chile and Argentina

This trip was kind of a surprise for my mom, who had been angling for me to accompany her on one of her excursions and had already signed up for a three-week trip to Chile and Argentina with Mark Smith Nature Tours.  (I told her I was coming along before I actually showed up in Santiago, Chile, though.)  The trip turned out to be more of a birding trip than pure nature tour,  and I, with no previous interest in birds, found a new passion!  So I suppose I could have included an entry here about Love of Birds, but in point of fact it’s true confession time: I have been cheating on The Pinky since I returned from this Chile/Argentina trip with another blog: The Accidental Bird Watcher.  So the love of birds is already well-documented.

Anyhow, Mom and I had a great, though pretty intense and demanding, trip.  We saw stuff!  “You’re going to see penguins!” Mark said before I left.  It didn’t really sink in until I was in South America, seeing penguins.  Penguins!  We also saw whales, icebergs, glaciers, foxes, an armadillo, and of course, many birds.  I was buzzed by a condor in Chile.  Never thought I would be able to say that.  I honestly thought a small plane was approaching, turned around to see it, and over me flew this gigantic bird, wings outstretched…whrrrrrrrr.  I never knew there was noise involved. 

Taking too much stuff, as usual.  That's a folding guitar in the front.

Valparaíso

This is where I got buzzed by the condor...I had walked on alone up the top of this path.

Patagonia...it's not just a clothing company!

Our first iceberg!

Perito Moreno glacier

The Beagle Channel, near Ushuaia, the southernmost-city in the world.

Right whale breaching

Penguins!

The falls at Iguazu

Iguazu Falls resident

The Galápagos 

Mark and I had talked for a long time about going to Ecuador and the Galapagos Islands; for him, it has been a lifelong dream.  I was all for it, especially now with my new love of birds.  I was also interested in practicing my Spanish. So in mid-April, I set off for Quito and spent a week there living with a host family and attending language school.  Mark then joined me and we flew to the Galapagos. 

I cannot say enough about how amazing the Galapagos Islands are.  A few salient points: 95% of the land is national park and, as a result, well-protected.  You cannot visit without a guide, and there are strict regulations as to where and when you can go.  The guides are natives of the islands and well-trained.  The animals are plentiful and not at all afraid of humans.  As a result of all of this, you will have close encounters with all manner of wildlife and learn a LOT! 

Mark and I went on an eight-day boat tour, and highly recommend it.  We booked our tour through Aida –Maria Travel and began on the boat Aida-Maria, then were transferred mid-way through to The Eden.  The Eden actually turned out to be a nicer boat…more roomy and a bit more fancy.  I loved the Aida-Maria, but didn’t know what I was missing until I got to the Eden!  I’d have to go with the Eden, should there will be a next time. 

They are now offering 15-day tours, and I would also go with that if you can.  Go for as long as you are able!  

Mark and I spent four nights on the island of Isabela at the end of our boat tour, and we would highly recommend that, as well.  Sandy streets, friendly townspeople, and more interesting places to learn about and visit.

Land iguana

Young sea lion, playing around

The famous blue-footed booby

This is how close we were!  They didn't mind at all.

Waved albatrosses

American oyster-catcher

The young sea lions hang around a few years with their mothers.

These tortoises are being raised in a breeding center and will be released into the wild when their shells are hard enough to prevent them being eaten by introduced species like rats, cats, and dogs (about age 4 or 5).

"Lonesome George," the famous last survivor of his species of tortoise.

Marine iguana

Lava heron

Our second boat, The Eden

Frigate birds often took advantage of the updraft and accompanied our boat.

Young Galápagos hawk

Famous view from The Pinnacle

Nasca boobies...they nest on the ground.

Frigate bird

Red-footed booby...they nest in trees.

Frigate bird, trying to attract a mate.

Extra-tall blue-footed booby, also trying to attract a mate.  

It worked!

Yellow-crowned night heron

Mangrove swamp

Interior of the fancy Eden

Whimbrel catching a crab

Volcano on Isabela Island with a ten-mile crater...our guide is showing a photo of the last eruption, four years ago. 

We walked over lava like this for hours in the surrounding area!

Penguin almost finished molting

Our digs on Isabela Island...not bad, eh?

Yellow warbler

Taking too much stuff again

Our very knowledgable guide, Jorge

Marine iguana nesting area

Our guide not only knew everything about the Galapagos, he also sang and played guitar!

Tortuga Bay on Santa Cruz Island

Back to Quito...this woman sold us some scarves.

Night view of Quito

Turkey

Then there came Turkey.  I had a friend who won fellowships in both Turkey and Germany this past year, but chose the German one.  Another friend and I hatched a scheme to visit her and her spouse (first same-sex couple to take advantage of the fellowship’s spousal benefits!  PROGRESS!) in Berlin. The only time said friend could go, though, was after school let out, so we proposed the trip for late June.  Our fellowship couple said that at that time, the fellowship would be over, but they would be traveling in Turkey, and would we like to join them there?  So we said sure! 

Ironically (and sadly), the friend with the time commitment did not end up going on the trip, but I did, and that is how I ended up going to Turkey, a country I never would have thought of visiting, but fell in love with once I got there!

Quick review of Turkey itinerary: one day in Fethiye, three days in Kalkan (both on the Mediterranean Sea), three days in Goreme (in Cappadocia, in the interior), one night in Ankara (the capitol) prior to flying back home. 

I only got to spend a few hours in Istanbul, purely at the airport.  So now I have to come back to see Istanbul. 

Extra EXTRA large ice cream cone!

Kalkan is famous for its white-washed walls and bougainvillea.

House for sale in Cappudocia...needs work.

Ruins at Patara

My own theater!  Aw, shucks, you shouldn't have.

Patara Beach...human playground by day, turtle nesting ground by night.

Las tres amigas

Göreme

Thousands of years ago, Christians carved churches into the soft rock, hiding from the Muslims.  

Göreme environs

Lovely Turkish breakfast!

Turkish biker gang.  :-)

Entrepreneur in the area around Göreme

Making your cave comfortable

Amazing scenery and endless hiking possibilities around Göreme

A must-visit...

Mustafa, at Red Valley Tea.

Our hiking companion from Göreme to Uchisar, whom we named "Köpek," which is Turkish for (wait for it)...dog.

Love Valley.  I'm not kidding.

See?

Glad to get back to Göreme after a long day hiking.

Cappadocia is famous for its hot air balloon rides.

First view of the Mediterranean, from Fethiye.

Ruins in the rocks

Biggest bread ever!  A Turkish tradition.  (It's hollow inside.)

The walk from our hostel in Kalkan to the sea.

Kalkan and the Mediterranean Sea

Sea kayaking near Kalkan

Kalkan shops

One of MANY cats making themselves at home in Kalkan.

Shops are open late at night, since it is sooooo hot during the day.

Imren, who sold me some beautiful bowls

Nice spot for breakfast at our hostel in Kalkan

Ruins in Olympos

STILL carrying too much stuff!

My impressions of Turkey?  Warm and friendly people, very focused on connections and relationships between people.  A secular country in which a diverse range of religious belief is accepted (though I was advised to keep my lack of belief to myself…while a range of belief is accepted, no belief at all is more difficult…not so different from here, actually).  A very young population, with nearly half the people under 35.  Vibrant, confident, proud to be Turkish, up-and-coming.  I’d go back in a heartbeat.

And now, here I am, traveling to Iowa.  And so we return to the first love: the love of biking.